Uhana Orphanage

The orphanage at Uhana where Nathalie works, these are the artists for the wooden horses used in the race night. This was on Nath's birthday and they had all made cards and got her presents. Unfortunately I was there to give Nath a lift to an INGO security meeting in Ampara at 3pm so birthday celebrations were cut short.

Work in progress

Just to say thanks to Bill for advice on HTML stuff. I am now messing with my blog layout so if anyone notices any improvement let me know. Of course it may actually get worse so tactful advice/comment please, I could be feeling sensitive.
I managed to instal a counter and have messed with the widths, I can't go back and alter previous posts, well I suppose I could but can't be bothered, so will be trying different stuff from now on. I have had a few disasters trying to change things, the HTML code for my layout is not easy to follow. I want to change the header bar and add a list of sites that I have had referrals from down the sidebar. Not proving as easy as it first seemed.

Directory Enquiries

Tried to get the number of a Guest House in Ella, rang directory enquiries of Sri Lanka Telecom, the first time they gave me two numbers, first one turned out to be a fax machine second a motel. Rang again this time one number but it turned out to be a hotel in a different town. Rang again this time told there is no listing for the GH and ring tourist info, the number they gave for tourist info was wrong. When I finally looked up and rang tourist info the office was shut, mid morning on a Saturday! Bear in mind that each time I rang I had to go through multiple choices and wait for an operator. I had spent an hour!
It is part of the frustration here that the simple things take ages, this tends to just be accepted as how it is. As they say over here ‘what we do?’.

Singer sewing machine

I was taken to Gonaragala to take part in a presentation ceremony, where a new sewing machine was given to a beneficiary as part of the livelihood scheme. The particular village is on the border of the uncleared area and in 1990 there were 54 deaths by shooting and machette. The lady on the right of the top picture has a scar across the bottom of her face where she was struck, very real situations. I was shown pictures of the victims, not a pleasant sight.

Karaoke Nights

There is an outbreak of karaoke machines in Ampara, now four here I believe. They are quite sophisticated and give you a score at the end. Last Friday went to my second karaoke party, this time determined to stay sober and avoid singing at all costs. Last time it was Clody’s leaving do and a surprise karaoke party, well surprise to me! Managed to stay sober this time but did end up singing, made the mistake of staying sat on the sofa when the more sensible people headed for the relative safety of the kitchen, so got stitched up. I managed a score of 92 in a duet with Tracy of Simon and Garfunkels the boxer. Best score on the night was 98.

Bike Bath

The rainy season is supposed to start in October, but it’s early this year. After a meeting on the coast I headed back to Ampara, 30km, you could see the black clouds all the way. I got to the checkpoint at the outskirts of town before it started raining and sheltered in the bike shed at the Sewalanka office. It’s quite good when it rains nobody bothers where you go to shelter, the security guard even brought me a chair. After half an hour the rain eased and I foolishly made a dash for home 5 mins away. I got about 300m before the deluge, totally soaked! Interesting though that the puddles were full of warm muddy water, not unpleasant to drive through.

Classroom

Just a photo I took in a school in Kalmunai where a peoples forum was held.

Temporary Camp

People are still living in these shelters after 20 months, don't want to make any comments but it does seem a long time given all the money and resources!

Peoples Forums

The above pictures are at a Muslim peoples forum in Saintarauthu, just north of Nintavur.


These photos are at a Tamil peoples forum in Kalmunai a bit further up the coast.

Dry Season

It’s the dry season in Ampara, easily identified by scorching hot days and disappearing lakes. Went swimming the other night only to find the water level 3-4m down and at its deepest point the water was knee level. In other lakes the lilies have taken over covering the surface for huge distances. We did manage a swim but had to go miles inland, beautiful spot though, alas spoiled by drunken local men insisting there were crocodiles in the lake and we should get out. You are never quite sure so it spoiled it, especially as it was getting dark by that time so a bit spooky.
The heat is severe and relentless, you get lethargic in the afternoons, or should that be more lethargic!

Race Night at the GOAL house Ampara

On the left a picture of Thandi trying to throw a six, or should that be drop! a six. Honest Sid (Ciaran) the Bookie
A Monday nights entertainment in Ampara, a good multinational crowd enjoyed a sporting fixture comprising: The Grand Notional, Rocky Horror Classic, Melbourne Coup a Donkey Derby among others with some very dodgy horses, riders and trainers. Full race cards were projected onto a big screen and betting was live.
We had seven races and raised RS 2500 for a charitable cause.
The number of variations on how to move a wooden horse down a track on the throw of a dice was truly innovative. Thanks to all who took part especially the hosts who put on a grand spread.

My Ampara bungalow (Pinky)

Pinky, as you can see it is very pink! I have now put up a few posters and made it a bit less like a Barbie house. I hope to get some more furniture as other INGO's move away. As a VSO you need to beg, borrow and permanently acquire.
I managed to prize my way into the locked wardrobe I received and have now put in a working lock, only took me 3 weeks!

For vols, VSO accommodation is usually good, for those who don't like bugs, ants or geckos you may find it difficult to exclude them. The furniture is usually second hand but ok. I managed to get a large square mozzie net, much better than the single one you are given. I also quite openly said to the more prosperous organisations that I would like first refusal on anything they were throwing out. I had no washing machine but managed to take my washing to other organisations houses and borrow theirs. Don't underestimate how great it is to wash and spin your clothes in a machine. Hand washing is no fun. Your clothes need washing every day, dust, dirt and sweat. VSO don't supply washing machines. VSO provide the house/flat but you have to pay for elec, gas, phone, internet, and food. You do get an allowance to equip the kitchen and get bedding but try and make friends with somebody leaving and grab their stuff.

Wagon Train

Some oxen draw carts on the road a regular sight

Weekend in Badulla

Went to Badulla, up in the mountains for the weekend, I was going on the bike but went in a van in the end, with Claudi. Took about 4 hours but through some really spectacular country. Badullah is a tea plantation area and after a town called Bibile you just climb all the time, following a valley most of the way. The climate there is much cooler than Ampara so easier to move around. Stayed with Beatrice one of the VSO vols I came with, she is very isolated and being a woman it is difficult to go out alone. Anyway we went to a waterfall on the Saturday afternoon, then a rock temple and famous wooden bridge with 'no nails' on Sunday morning. The temple was very beautiful and tranquil, we were first there in the morning so got special treatment from the head monk and a guided tour. It is quite good not having lots of tourists around, you have these places to yourself. Will go again and perhaps visit Ella just up the road.

For Vols, Beatrice was the only westerner in Badulla, so only company is those she works with and her landlady in an adjoining house. It is difficult for a woman alone, you can't go out and buy a beer. So I advise female vols to chat to a female returned vol to get the right advice and perspective. I personally would not have liked being the only westerner in a town and only having local company. I did get the chance during the VSO process to specify my preferences. Being isolated may have its attractions but be sure you know how isolated you can get in a developing country.

Petrol shortage

Whilst Wendy, another VSO went on holiday I borrowed her bike as it is better than mine. She was away for 3 weeks, half way through I went and started my bike to check all ok, it was. I swapped back on Friday 11th and rode about a mile on my bike before it stopped dead. After several attempts to start it and advice from a crowd of trishaw drivers the problem was identified, no petrol! It had been half full when left next to the 24 hour security guard post at Wendy’s work place. Sod’s law then took control as I had just bought a phone card and a new lock for the locked shut wardrobe, so had no cash. A friendly trishaw driver picked up an empty bottle from the side of the road to put petrol in and we headed back to my house to get some cash. Got home to find no cash there so had to go to the bank. The cash machine at the bank I use was out of order, first time that’s happened. So then to another bank, doesn’t accept my cards then on to a 3rd bank and finally get some cash. On to a garage where we fill the whisky bottle with petrol and head back to my bike. This has taken half an hour and we have been all round Ampara, I was expecting a big trishaw bill, he only charged me 100 rupees!

Livelihood schemes

Some beneficiaries of a livelihood scheme receiving their goods or cheques. Note the sewing machines are treddle as there is no power in some locations or what power there is is not reliable. Everybody did smile, just not when the camera was looking!

Kandy Esala Perahera

Kandy Perahera

Once a year there is a big festival in Kandy, it takes place at night and is a procession building every night over a week. The procession is lit by fires carried on poles as well as by groups with flaming batons or wheels. It is exceptionally spectacular and apart from the elephants having lights powered by battery it has been the same for hundreds of years. It is judged on the number of elephants that are present. The streets around the Temple of the Tooth smell of elephants and have piles of dung heaped here and there.
The procession starts at 7.30pm and the streets are lined with people, some have been sitting on the road side for many hours. It starts with young boys with whips making loud cracks, then more boys with flaming batons. As the procession slowly moves on there are elephants covered with intricate cloth and lit by lots of small fairy lights. There are drummers giving a constant beat and some of the elephants seem to sway in time. Every now and then an important person goes past with attendant escort in his best ceremonial gear. Then boys spinning plates on sticks and wooden sword fighters. There is some repetition but you don’t get bored.
I was sat in the Queens Hotel at the entrance to the Tooth Temple where the procession starts it then goes round the town. Evidently on the last day it goes on till 3 in the morning!