My Blog, started to record my adventures as I headed off to live and work in Sri Lanka for a couple of years in March 2006. The blog is now a general record of what I am doing, I have also added the VSO process detail from April 2005 for new Volunteers reading it. Please note: the views expressed in this blog are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect those of VSO.
Saturday, May 27, 2006
Skinny dipping
The lake at Goy Ola national park to the west of Ampara and my VSO motorbike, I went for a swim in the lake, never thinking about crocodiles, found out later they are in the lake! Oops!
There are supposed to be lots of elephants here but on the other side of the lake, you can hire a canoe and cross, but it looks a long way in the heat.
Friday, May 19, 2006
Knuckles range and ride!
These photos were taken as we went from Kandy to Ampara across the Knuckles mountain range. Home of 17 hairpin bends, that’s what it says on the sign, they are on the way down on the Ampara side, and 17 is what you get. The bends all have numbers and are all hairpins, no ‘not quite’ a hairpin here. The views are amazing but we were in a hurry it took nine and a half hours as it was. There are lots of monkeys who seem to like sitting on the mile posts watching the fun. As you climb the road gets narrower and the surface has less tarmac, in the end its one lane and a bit broken up. Alas if you get the speed and turn wrong you end up like this unfortunate driver, think he was alright.
It took nine and a half hours to get here, Ampara, what a journey! First the drive to Kandy, done that before, it’s just a manic ride in heavy traffic, one lane each way and the usual hairy moments whilst overtaking or just meeting a bus head on, but usually room for all in the end, average speed about 25kph, so not that dangerous. After Kandy climbed into the mountains, roads got steeper and narrower the higher we went. Then the roads got less like roads and more sort of tracks, however the volume of traffic, buses, heavy lorries, trishaws and motorbikes, remained constant. I took some photos through the windscreen we daren’t stop to compose photos, no room. It was amazing in the end a one lane track with two way traffic and once at the top a sign saying 17 hairpin bends, yes there are that many and all numbered to save you counting, every one a hairpin too, no half measures. As you go down there are monkeys sitting on the mile posts at the side of the road watching you, tried to get a photo but had to keep moving and the delay on my digital shutter is a bloody nuisance. Anyway did get a shot of a lorry which had toppled over. Some of the views across the plain to Ampara are spectacular, you have to see them to appreciate it. Once down we ended up on a straight, lightly trafficked road with army forts built on rocks, the whole thing was a bit Wild West, we then had boys on bicycles with rifles balanced on the handlebars, evidently they are civilians helping the police! So as we sped across the plain with our VSO flag flying it was a bit like a cavalry charge. Would have loved to get photos of the forts but it’s asking for trouble, same with the boys on bikes, pity really.
It took nine and a half hours to get here, Ampara, what a journey! First the drive to Kandy, done that before, it’s just a manic ride in heavy traffic, one lane each way and the usual hairy moments whilst overtaking or just meeting a bus head on, but usually room for all in the end, average speed about 25kph, so not that dangerous. After Kandy climbed into the mountains, roads got steeper and narrower the higher we went. Then the roads got less like roads and more sort of tracks, however the volume of traffic, buses, heavy lorries, trishaws and motorbikes, remained constant. I took some photos through the windscreen we daren’t stop to compose photos, no room. It was amazing in the end a one lane track with two way traffic and once at the top a sign saying 17 hairpin bends, yes there are that many and all numbered to save you counting, every one a hairpin too, no half measures. As you go down there are monkeys sitting on the mile posts at the side of the road watching you, tried to get a photo but had to keep moving and the delay on my digital shutter is a bloody nuisance. Anyway did get a shot of a lorry which had toppled over. Some of the views across the plain to Ampara are spectacular, you have to see them to appreciate it. Once down we ended up on a straight, lightly trafficked road with army forts built on rocks, the whole thing was a bit Wild West, we then had boys on bicycles with rifles balanced on the handlebars, evidently they are civilians helping the police! So as we sped across the plain with our VSO flag flying it was a bit like a cavalry charge. Would have loved to get photos of the forts but it’s asking for trouble, same with the boys on bikes, pity really.
Thursday, May 18, 2006
Horton Gardens, Colombo
Tuesday, May 16, 2006
Galle
Pandol in Galle
Monday, May 15, 2006
Vesak in Galle
Vesak, the birth, death and enlightenment of Buddha all celebrated on the same day, 1st full moon in May. Lots of paper lanterns are made, they range in size, some are huge and very complex, all look great when all lit up. We came upon the lorry in Galle Fort and watched the children being prepared to take part in activities, they are a choir.
Galle Fort
Galle fort, the lighthouse and what must be the biggest budhist flag. The fort is still lived in and has narrow streets with both shops and private houses. spectacular views and a great place at sunset, all the locals go there.
Just back from beach, great time, got there Fri. lunch, dumped stuff went for a swim in beautiful bay (check blog), sat on the beach for lunch, then disaster…I turned red and blotchy, allergic reaction? Photosensitive, effect of malaria pills? Stung by jellyfish? Anyway lasted four hours so no more swimming Friday, just being stared at and asked how I feel.
Took a walk along beach and up to temple, watched sunset and full moon rise either side of the same peninsula then dinner on beach. Saturday, Vesak day, birth, death and enlightenment of Buddha, also full moon.
I went for swim before breakfast and walk along beach, no red blotches, had long slow b’fast. Then swims all day, Jacky, Ange, B and I all at surf city in Unawatuna, other vso’s at beach too, met up to chat. Spent relaxed day, stopped taking malaria pills and avoided same foods, no repeat of rash.
Four of us went into Galle and walked around the fort then ate on the 5th floor of a shop overlooking the fort and all the Vesak celebrations, lots of lights and the pandol, a big tribute, lots of bright flashing lights depicting the life of Buddha. Once dark the whole centre had lanterns lit, big, small, simple and complex (see blog). Like Blackpool, the whole town was out. Got back to beach half way through second half of cup final, saw extra time, group of us in a bar, they managed to get Arrak, a local spirit. Aussie guy said I had been stung by a jellyfish but decided to stop taking pills anyway.
On way to and from Galle saw tsunami damage, the train was near Galle also the bus station at Galle was another of the big images from the tsunami. Very sobering to see at first hand and easier to imagine what it was like.
On way to and from Galle saw tsunami damage, the train was near Galle also the bus station at Galle was another of the big images from the tsunami. Very sobering to see at first hand and easier to imagine what it was like.
Unawatuna Beach
Unawatuna beach, just outside Galle to the south, these are the views to the right and left from Surf City guest house, midday so too hot to go out of the shade unless heading into the water.
Just back from beach, great time, got there Fri. lunch, dumped stuff went for swim in beautiful bay, sat on beach for lunch, then disaster…I turned red and blotchy, allergic reaction? Photosensitive, effect of malaria pills? Stung by jellyfish? Anyway lasted four hours so no more swimming Friday, just being stared at and asked how I feel. Took a walk along beach and up to temple, watched the sunset and full moon rise either side of the same peninsula then dinner on beach. Saturday, Vesak day, birth, death and enlightenment of Buddha, also full moon. Went for swim before breakfast and walk along beach, no red blotches, had long slow b’fast. Then swims all day, Jacky, Ange, B and I all at surf city in Unawatuna, other vso’s at beach too, met up to chat. Spent relaxed day, stopped taking malaria pills and avoided same foods, no repeat of rash. Four of us went into Galle and walked around the fort then ate on the 5th floor of a shop overlooking the fort and all the Vesak celebrations, lots of lights and the pandol, a big tribute, lots of bright flashing lights depicting the life of Buddha. Once dark the whole centre had lanterns lit, big, small, simple and complex. Like Blackpool, the whole town was out. Got back to beach half way through second half of cup final, saw extra time, group of us in a bar, they managed to get Arrak, a local spirit. Aussie guy said I had been stung by a jellyfish but decided to stop taking pills anyway.
On way to and from Galle saw tsunami damage, the train wreck was near Galle also the bus station at Galle was another of the big images from the tsunami. Very sobering to see at first hand and easier to imagine what it was like.
Monday, May 08, 2006
Kandy course
The botanical gardens at Kandy, me cooking Sri Lankan and the class of April 06 at Montfort Lodge
For volunteers, the in country training covers, language, culture, tradition, religion and cooking. You do need to know how to use local ingredients as you can't always get any western style foods, nothing too technical just local curry recipes and basic bread, roti.
Surprise birthday party
Milton playing quoits, my 21st birthday party oil lamps and tossing coins on the steps at Montford Lodge.
Another full couple of days, last formal day of training on 24th, thought we were all going to Ashley’s for a few beers. Turns out I had a surprise birthday party, the ladies had gone to lots of trouble, handmade flower garland, oil lamps, banner with beer and nibbles. Was well stunned, kept me quiet for ages. Had a great time played silly games and did tricks for a few hours. Last day today had end of course Olympics, mix of Sri Lankan games and ones we came up with see blog for photos, the locals cheated really badly and ignored any rules, cultural experience. We did hopscotch, quoits, 10 pin bowling, apple bobbing etc. and threw a few water bombs for good measure. The prizes were spoons and other kitchen stuff, the woven wall hanging spoon holder will easily be posted for Xmas so watch out those on Xmas list.
Montford Lodge, Kandy
The road to Montford Lodge, our training centre, a very steep climb and busy in both directions
in rush hour.
After two weeks in Colombo we have moved to Kandy, home of the Temple of the Tooth, whoever has the tooth relic rules Sri Lanka. Kandy is about 500m above sea level and an historic capital. It’s a beautiful place with a mountain setting, the rides from the hotel low down by the lake to the training centre at the top of a hill are hairy. The roads are very steep, narrow, and tend to wash away in the rain, they are also very busy and have regular full size busses using them. It all makes for interesting journeys.
There are a few more tourists evident here, a few tours and 5* hotels, quite good for us as we get to use the hotel pools for RS150 a day incl towel and sun lounger, very civilized.
Cultural Triangle random photos
wall paintings at Sigirya, crowds on elephant safari
and temple of the tooth at Kandy
In the evening after Polonnaruwa we went by jeep on safari to see elephants in the wild, we managed to see about 30 over an hour or so. What happens though is when you are parked quietly watching them other jeeps see you have found elephants and head for you. That’s ok unless the jeep has large families in it with lots of kids, the elephants don’t like noise and sometimes charge the jeeps. So as soon as the full jeeps head your way you have to keep alert, you easily get surrounded by elephants despite their size they seem to hide in the grass quite well.
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